Sunday, July 30, 2006

Round and round and round...

Tanya, Brendan and I spent one rainy afternoon checking out a fun park. In true Manila style, much of the park, including most of the rides, were inside, sheltered from the typhoon. The indoor "park" smelled a lot like those red hot dogs mixed with wet cardboard. I could feel the ground shake when a huge pirate ship swung back and forth in a two- or three-story opening created just big enough for the ride. I would have loved that place if I were 12 years old.

Something to complain about

Saturday afternoon I huddled under my half-broken red umbrella, frantically waving at any vehicle that looked like a taxi. It wasn't raining hard yet, but it was raining. Any sort of precipitation and Manila taxi drivers disappear. It took half an hour to find an unoccupied taxi, but once I did the driver asked me for 50 pesos over the meter because there was "traffic."

Taxi drivers always moan about traffic. I've never understood why. Is there a magical moment of each day when there isn't traffic in Manila? Because if there is, I would like to know. You would think taxi drivers would just consider Manila traffic an occupational hazard and get on with their day, but they don't. They complain and ask you for more money and then when you're stuck in traffic, they shake their heads and say, "Traffic. So much traffic." Depending on my mood, I'll sometimes pay a bit extra, just so I don't have to look for another taxi.

But this time I promptly got out of the car. I didn't care if it would take me another half hour to find a taxi, I was in no mood to be extorted by another shady driver.

I soon found a taxi driver who didn't complain. They do exist; it's just difficult to find them. Later the same night, my friend Juliana and I were leaving a concert in Malate when we started the taxi hailing dance once again.

The dance is familiar to most people who've spent more than a day in Manila. You hail a cab and tell them where you're going. In most cities, that would be that. A price would be fixed or a meter started and you would be on your way to your next destination. But in Manila, the driver first decides to either accept or reject you. This can be a frustrating process depending on where you're hailing the cab and where you're going. If you're not going in the same direction as the driver, you have to start the dance over again. But that's only half of the process. Once you've been accepted, the driver does one of three things. 1) Turns on the meter (this is the preferred behavior), 2) Asks for a certain amount of money over the meter, or 3) tries to set a flat rate. You will almost always get ripped off with options 2 and 3, and just about 50 percent of the time with option 1.

Outside the club in Malate it was raining again. I was expecting a difficult time finding a taxi because I was going home to Quezon City. But I quickly found one who seemed willing to make the voyage to the suburbs.

We drove about one block when he suddenly said, "I can't."

"Why?" I asked, thinking he was just another complainer.

"Flooood," he said, pronouncing the word with a long-U.

"What? No flood, look!" I said, pointing at the un-flooded asphault on Adriatico Street. Sheesh, I thought. My neighboorhood doesn't flood very often. If there was a flood in Quezon City, Malate would be flooded too. I figured he was just trying to get out of taking me to Quezon City. Nothing new there.

"Flooooood," he said again.

He wasn't backing down, so I got out and hailed another taxi. The second taxi driver didn't mention a flood, turned on the meter and we were on our way.

About 15 minutes later, the taxi skidded to a stop as the driver reluctantly drove his low, Toyota sedan through about a foot of water. I could hear him cursing under his breath.

Ooops, I thought. A flood. I guess the first driver did have something to complain about.

Friday, July 21, 2006

A few good resources

I'm always on the lookout for good background information when big news stories break. It's something about working in a newsroom. Here are a few resources that helped me understand the Israel-Hezbollah conflict a little better:

* Q&A: Behind the Israel-Hizbullah crisis, The Christian Science Monitor

* From the Council on Foreign Relations: Mideast Conflict Rages On (July 18, 2006) and a profile of Hassan Nasrallah, leader of Hezbollah

* Another fascinating, very well-written profile of Nasrallah that originally appeared in Sunday's Washington Post (here's a link to the Sacramento Bee's reprint) -- the article shows the contradictions of a radical group that has also legitimately entered politics as members of parliament.

* And a great blog post by PBS Frontline's Kate Seelye in Beirut -- Lebanon: "This Country is Drowning"

Hitchhikers

A coworker and I were walking through our company's compound to get a cup of coffee when she asked me, "Christina, what are other countries doing to get their citizens out of Lebanon?" I am not an expert on the Middle East, nor the situation in Lebanon and Israel, but I have been watching a lot more CNN and BBC, and checking the New York Times and Washington Post Web sites more obsessively than usual.

"It looks like a lot of people are being evacuated by boat," I said. "Why?"

"Well, I was just covering a press conference at Malacanang (the Philippines' version of the White House), and the official stance on evacuation is that Filipinos should try to hitch rides with whoever will take them. So far only the United States has agreed, but only if all their citizens are safe."

It shouldn't surprise me that the Philippine government's seemingly limitless services for Filipinos working overseas would fail at a time like this. The government draws up plans for everything, and then draws up plans for drawing up more plans. But planning and action are two different things. You would think that after almost a year here I would know better. You would think I wouldn't be surprised. But I was.

"You mean, they want Filipinos to hitchhike out of Lebanon?"

"Yeah," she said. She was laughing a little, but she was clearly half ashamed and half annoyed with the government.

With 30 to 40 thousand Filipinos in Lebanon, you would think the government would have an evacuation plan that consisted of more than just writing letters to embassies, begging them to repatriate nationals stuck in the middle of missle attacks.

To be fair, there are a few other plans now, and some of the plans have been implemented. So far a couple hundred Filipinos were taken by bus to Damascus. When another group arrives, a chartered flight will bring them back to Manila. But that's only about 400 people. Others have been told that they should seek shelter at a Catholic Church in Beirut. One church. Thirty to 40 thousand people. That's a lot of hitchhikers.

Thursday, July 13, 2006

Rizal Shrine

Fort Santiago, Intramuros, Manila. July 9, 2006.